Originally published August 15, 2016 | Updated April 25, 2018
In the era of instant gratification and on-demand everything, travel is still sacredly slow. The minutes between point A and point B might be the only time in our busy lives we are able to live in the moment, and ditch stressing about what has yet to come. To experience the journey, to be present and to avoid focusing solely on the destination.
Unmatched for a quick getaway, you’re bound to discover a mouth-watering meal, a can’t-miss shop, the perfect park for a picnic or a viewpoint that creates a lasting memory in Victoria. But the journey to, from and around the city’s unique geography is as rewarding as any single place you visit during a BC adventure. Luckily, all you have to do to experience this beautiful region is hop on a Kenmore flight and take a ride on the Victoria Clipper to soak in the views by air, land and sea.
By Air
It’s easy to forget that there’s an airport on Westlake Ave. The flight on Kenmore Air from Seattle to Victoria may be one of the fastest ways to the island city, but it certainly isn’t the most obvious one. The airline’s terminal, with its single gate, is tucked well below the new canopy of buildings that now define South Lake Union. Despite the leanings of its techy neighbors, Kenmore Air does things the old-fashioned way and provides an experience that reminds you just how magical it is to soar high above the city.
Catching the first flight from Seattle to Victoria has you walking down the floating jet way at about 8:15 a.m., moments after a fleet of yellow-striped seaplanes glide into the marina. One by one, pilots in khaki shorts and crisp white collars retrieve their passengers and start their propellers — the herd of classic engines growl like a motorcycle gang revving up for a joy ride. Earplugs are provided.
On this flight, you leave the ground before you ever take off. Your journey begins the moment you step off the pontoon and into the cozy wood-trimmed cabin. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, and you ask your pilot nicely, hop into the co-pilot seat for unrivaled views and more legroom than any first-class ticket can buy.
Seaplanes are mono-sensory experiences. Your earplugs are always in, your seatbelt is always buckled, and the weightlessness of flight is ever-present, from Lake Union to the moment you skim into Victoria’s Inner Harbour. All you have to do is witness the beauty of the Pacific Coast.
If you somehow get tired of the incredible views of out your window, watch your seasoned Kenmore pilot guide the plane with a complex array of knobs, levers and switches—an homage to travel’s romantic past. But soak it up while you can, because in less than an hour, it’s over. This might be the only flight of your summer you wish could be longer.
By Land
The first urge when we reach a new place is to find somewhere to abandon everything we brought with us. Our baggage—both literal and figurative — holds us back from doing what we really want to be doing in that moment: exploring. And there’s no better way to let everything go and discover Victoria than riding a bicycle.
When a local tells you to expand your journey beyond the Inner Harbour, take their word for it. But don’t leave before heading over to The Pedaler and renting a bike. Pop across the street from the Clipper terminal, and you’ll find this small, but fully-stocked shop ready to provide everything you need to see the city on two wheels. Whether you want to explore the city on of their unique tours or just get a bike and ride, this shop has it all.
After picking out a bike and adjusting your saddle, strap on your helmet and head down Belleville Street away from city center. The bike-friendly road makes its way to the coast, where you’ll be stopped in your tracks by the ocean views you may have already forgotten from the flight into town. Time your visit right for lunch at one of the many stops along the way. Say “hi” to the local harbor seals and feast on delicious fish and chips at Fisherman’s Wharf, or pack a picnic to munch on in Beacon Hill Park, a little more than 4 km from the bike shop.
If you complete the mostly flat 6.5 km loop back to Belleville St, Beacon Hill is an essential scenic detour. Ride slowly along the paths and side roads, not only to avoid cars and pedestrians, but also for the opportunity to experience the sights and sounds of this veritable jungle, filled with free-roaming peacocks, nesting herons and a full-on petting zoo.
If you’re up for it, skip the turn back to Pedaler and head into the city for an open-air tour behind the handlebars. A 24-hour rental is the best deal if you want to go the self-guided route — and burn off that extra scone you’ll undoubtedly eat at afternoon tea. However, if you want some extra advice on what to spots to check out, we recommend hopping on the guided Castles, Hoods and Legends Tour.
By Sea
It’s hard to beat a summer evening on the Clipper after a long day of exploring Victoria. The later summer schedule nestles your departure right after supper in the city, but with enough time to get out on the water to soak in views of the San Juan Islands before nightfall.
For journey junkies, the less than three-hour ride back to Seattle provides a sense of freedom few forms of travel can offer. The boat is yours to explore, with incomparable views from the back deck to your own seat and an accommodating crew open to sharing their stories and nautical knowledge (Did I mention there’s a bar?)
Unlike a stuffy jetliner or shoulder-to-shoulder car ride, this sense of freedom makes people actually want to strike up a conversation — to reflect on each other’s adventures, show off photos, play cards or just pass the time.
While it is tempting to get lost in a book or succumb to heavy eyelids, don’t forget about the sunset. With the cabin filling with golden light, it’s hard to miss your cue to head outside to watch the last rays of light disappear beyond the horizon.
Clipper Recommends:
- Quench your thirst after your ride by swinging by one of the excellent brew pubs in Victoria for a frosty pint. If you’re having trouble deciding which venue to choose, hop on our expertly-guided definitive craft brew tour and sip on a lineup of freshly poured craft beer at breweries throughout the city.
- Looking for more ways to explore Victoria? Pay homage to the classic British double-decker bus with a variety of tours on the tall, open-aired goliaths. Choose between a guided city tour or ahop-on, hop-off option to best suit your travel style.
Feature Photo: Lucas Anderson